Was meant to be out in the garden this weekend building my new garden office, but the weather wasn’t on my side, so I fired up SketchUp and started the design work for the house. Thinking about a two storey extension to the side (in place of the garage) and a single story extension to rear, fancy knocking through the existing living room and dining room and re-developing the kitchen. But how far can a 1930’s semi be pushed?
View of upstairs, extended third bedroom and the double size bathroom.
View from the rear of the house. Velux windows in the single story pitched roof to throw light into the living space.
Living and dining room knocked through, with furniture providing logical separation. The kitchen is slightly relocated and opens out onto the decking / back garden with the dining room table in close proximity. Great for summer dining. Small office / toy room and downstairs toilet in place of garage.
Bi-fold doors out onto the decking.
Fair bit of steel required. Think I’ll have to develop this concept a bit further to simplify.
Engine cover and mounts sprayed ready for assembly.
The metallic black looks great on the engine cover.
Engine cover located, gently gently don’t want to scratch anything.
Metallic drive sprocket, yeah, why not.
Rear wheel complete, now lets get that engine on.
I cut up some rubber strip to protect the paint on the frame. Engine mounts on, and on goes the engine. Perfect.
Next step, brakes and gears.
Pressed the headset cups into the newly painted frame. Then in go the springer forks.
Both wheels go on. There’s not a lot of clearance on the rear, had to let the air out of the tyre to locate the hub in the dropout’s. I guess that’s what you get when you opt for balloon tyres.
Pressed in the bottom bracket cups, and in go the bearings and spindle. On go the cranks and pedals.
Petrol tank on, just need to make some spacers and retainers for the leather straps.
Brooks saddle on, and we’re starting to get somewhere.
Next step, I need to paint the engine and mounts, and fabricate a stainless steel exhaust. Right, I’m going in, it’s bloomin freezing.
Headset in, fits like a glove.
In goes the handle bar stem, and on go the North Road bars, upside down of course. I think they look much better like this. Not sure yet if it’ll make the riding position too agressive, I’ll have to wait until its rideable to know for definite.
On go the forks, but…..
Looks like I’m going to have to make a custom spring hanger bracket, as there’s no way the standard one will fit, its in line with the head tube.
Fire up SolidWorks, and get that kettle on, click.
Right, lets mark out this bracket and start cutting metal.
Rough it out on the milling machine, and I’ll shape the rest on the linisher.
It’s 8mm thick, so I’ll throw a bit of heat at it, and bend on the fly press.
Holes in, before I assemble with the headset I’ve got to find 8mm from somewhere, as I’m already using the full length of the steerer tube, and there’ll be no room for this too.
I’ll turn 8mm off the bottom step of the steerer tube, and that should do the trick.
Sand blasted the bracket, re-assemble the springer forks and head set, and we’re done.
OK, back to the bike again, and onto the front end. Originally I intended to go for a nice old fashioned brazed lug style fork, but I was a bit concerned it’d become a bit of a bone shaker.
So, in keeping with the period look, I’ve opted instead for a set of ‘springer forks’. Hopefully that’ll soften the ride in style.
There seems to be a lot of variation here, the steerer tube length, OD, ID, and thread length being rather important. Quite a few phone calls, emails, and a bit of umming and arring and hopefully I’m good to go.
Length: 8”, OD:1”, ID:7/8”, Thread length 3”.
Wheel in, and fotunately all seems to line up nicely with the front Sturmey Archer hub. Brake arm fits nicely, might need a bit of gentle persuasion when the tyre goes on.
Hmm, the steerer tube has got a step at the base, and the lower bearing track on the headset doesn’t fit. Back to the machine shop.
Now that’s what you call a flip flop hub. The sprocket fits snuggly underneath the brake arm, but there’s still enough clearance for it to do its thing. I was a little concerned that the drive sprocket would foul the chain stay, but everything’s looking good so far. Well this is going rather smoothly.
Onto the front forks, the front Sturmeys in, and the wheel aligns nicely.
Well, I might as well start assembling the handle bars and stem so I can get the gear shift working.
Hang on, the new handle bar stem doesnt fit inside the front fork? Aww, I’m sure I ordered a 22.2mm and not a 25.4mm, where’s my vernier?….
Stem’s right, seems I have a fork with a 21mm I.D.?
Kettle on, Click.
Finally finished off the rear drive. After taking apart the rear Sturmey Archer, and rapidly putting it back together before the whole thing collapsed into millions of pieces (woh, theres a lot going on in there). I split the sprocket boss and clamp into three, so you can assemble everything whilst keeping the Sturmey untouched, probably best…